Relative Satisfaction

I moved from a spacious and now seemingly luxurious one bedroom in Indiana to a shoe box in New York city.  But it wasn’t until I visited the Padrona region in Bihar that I found a new appreciation for the Patna guest house I’m now living in. The initial shock of the dirty bathroom I share with men wore off only when I heard from another fellow who had no running water. Suddenly, I was thankful for my cold bucket baths despite the swarming mosquitoes. The darkness in rural Bihar gave me an appreciation for the fluctuating voltage in the city that ruined my charger day 1. Making a twelve hour train, bus and rickshaw journey made me realize the luxury of sitting in a car for six.

Satisfaction is so relative.

Power to Empower

Bright futures and smiles
Photo Credit: Husk Image Library

The transition from New York to Patna

It has been a little more extreme than I anticipated.  To help me stay positive throughout the nine months I decided to start a list of the things I like about Patna. Things I am experiencing that I don’t want to forget. I plan to update the list throughout my time here….

·         The hot rotis and morning Chai are absolutely divine

·         Surprisingly, despite Bihar’s reputation there is a very limited divide between the help staff and management. Perhaps it is an indication of just the people I work with. The drivers, cooks and staff are given the same dignity, the same type of ownership as the managers. They are invited to the hotel celebrations, they sit with the entire group and are respected as part of the team from the very top. This is rare in India and an incredible testament to the values of this organization.

·         There is Hindi music blaring at odd moments of the day and night. Its affirmation that I am in India!

My daily view

View from the office window

Ying and Yang

Patna. The overwhelming stench of the garbage along the dirty roads is hard to ignore. I have to conscientiously dodge the red spit stains, cow dung and stray dogs on my walk to the office. The cycle rickshaws, barely lit roads with small temples give you the impression of a village decades ago. Yet the same city is home to a revolving restaurant, malls and several innovative organizations all working towards change.

This development was recently highlighted, when my housemates and I ventured to a pristine mall on the other side of city to experience the best restaurant Patna offers. Puneetji, without any hesitation plopped next to the rickshaw driver as the rest of us piled into the back. I couldn't contain my smile at the sight of something familiar. A mall complete with Biba, Café Coffee Day, Adidas and Domino's outlets. Yet, the disparity between life inside and outside the shiny new building is impossible to ignore.

Last night I sat, the only girl with a group of 12 other male co-workers, listening to Jay-Z blaring on one set of speakers competing with an old Hindi classic on the other. It struck me - countless such unexpected and unchartered moments wait for me and for Patna. 

Changing the status quo

Walking up the dusty cement stairs under construction to get to the shared conference table where I work is no longer unusual. Ironically, the deafening sound of the diesel generator signifies the start of the work day at the clean energy company. Unlike at Acumen, there are no required Friday reflections or fellows around to discuss and capture what I have learnt this week. Yet, today I felt compelled to pause.

As glamorous, sexy and exciting as social entrepreneurship sounds in a business school classroom – the reality is far from it.  The entrepreneur must have the patience to repeat himself and drive the very basics from the top down. He must have the flexibility and willingness to explain how to hide a row in excel, how to integrate the MIS system into every department all while being cognizant of paying for diesel for the generator downstairs, to buy an additional hour of electricity for the ongoing meeting. It's not glamorous, definitely not sexy and going through mundane yet critical operational details is far from exciting. 

Yet, it is that flexibility and that willingness that actually changes the status quo. Change ...despite the odds, the naysayers and the never ending challenges. 

Plant Visit #1

Training operators, mechanics and engineers

The guys who brighten rural Bihar

Sinking in rice husk!

Drastic Realities

Crossing the Ganga on the way to Behatti was a serene experience. There is something powerful about witnessing a river you’ve heard worshipped for thirty years. The sheer breadth of the river is striking and it looked even so serene early in the morning. The superstitious side kicks in and I think I’m off to a good start.

I visited three Husk plants and toured a market place all glittering with Husk powered white lights. An incredible reminder of the real difference this organization is making in the lives of these villagers. Just pulling out my camera in the marketplace resulted in an instant crowd around me…I need to invest in a more discrete camera to truly capture the faces amidst the bright lights.

Most of my day though was spent trying to reconcile the differences between my reality and the reality I was observing. This highlighted even more at the Dhaba where we stopped along the highway around Ten. Bihar has “line hotels” – fast food joints at best where truckers stop to eat. They are open 24-7, open aired and serve the basics. While I shivered in my fleece waiting for our food, I noticed a little boy with ear muffs running around in shorts serving water to the guests. Soon, he hopped into the bed behind me, covering himself with a blanket from head to toe.  Having recently watched, I am Kalam, I couldn’t help but think about the realities of the countless young boys that won’t have the happy ending Kalam did in the movie.

My thoughts get interrupted as 5 guys carrying giant guns enter the Dhaba. Their faces are covered and they are hovering around like they own the place. They enter the kitchen, the back room, without any concern for the patrons. No one at my table even flinches. Suddenly it is apparent that I’m the only girl in the entire Dhaba. I am hesitant to even bite, because I’m envisioning a typical Hindi movie scene. Bihar has a reputation for violence and I’m going to experience it on Day 2. Reluctantly, I whisper to a fellow traveler, making sure he notices the guns. 

He dismissively asks, “Where?”   

God, I should have taken the Security Briefing seriously. 

“All around” I murmur. 

How could you not notice five guys hovering with guns? 

Finally he says, “Oh, they are cops….see their camouflage?”  

Despite so much talk about mental models and steering away from stereotypes – it took about 20 seconds to divert to the worst.

I’m left questioning how (not if) I can play a part in reducing the differences between the realities I am witnessing.

I’m definitely in Bihar, it wasn’t a dream!

I hop on Satishji’s bike and head to the office. Unfinished stairs without a railing, wireless internet that doesn't work and a bustling conference room table that’s being used as an office by 5 people  – all signs that I am at a start up. The 20 minute chat with the CEO is enough evidence to see why he’s been able to create this enterprise. He is direct, concise and encouraging in the time I spend with him. He directs “Take the next step, even if it isn't the best step.” Thanks to Satishji I get access to internet and meet the rest of the team.

Later in the evening, my tolerance for noise, need for personal space and/or security gets put to the test.  I hop on Satishji’s bike again to go to the bank, still haven’t figured out the foot rest bit, so my right leg is dangling in mid-air. I quickly realize why the rests are a necessity in the first place; I’m surrounded by jeeps, rickshaws, trucks, people and two wheelers all honking for attention at once. I try to keep my foot as close to the bike as possible while avoiding the turning wheel; Haunting tales of people’s duppatas and pants getting stuck flash in my mind.  Drivers swerve to change directions at their heart’s whim and I feel like I should expect whiplash tomorrow.  I’ve been in Indian traffic before but never like this.

A gal from the office was kind enough to take me on an apartment hunting trip. She said we needed to get a rickshaw. I didn’t realize were pursuing a cycle rickshaw. They are all around Patna. I felt like a giant and wished I could make myself instantly lighter. Fortunately, we walked home.  

I did manage to get a phone so I’m finally connected. Feeling a bit more settled now.  

Arrival in Bihar!

I landed in Delhi yesterday in sheer awe of the shinny, sparkley airport. It was no different than the Amsterdam airport even the posted signs seemed to be the same. Despite the 14 hour flight, it wasn't until I saw the Dillichat counter at the airport that it truly hit me that I was in India.

3 hours later I was on the flight to Patna. A stark difference from the award winning airport I had experienced earlier. Patna has 2 baggage belts so my giant suitcase was pretty easy to spot. When I stepped outside to see the swarms of mosquitoes & flies hovering around the lights - I knew I was really here. This is going to be India unlike anything I've experienced before. As I stood outside hoping my ride hadn't forgotten about me, avoiding the shoves of the crowd of taxi drivers -  I reminded myself how I had knowingly signed up for ambiguity.

A pleasant evening at Satishji's followed. I met my two housemates and Satishji's brothers family. His nephews set up the bright pink mosquito net around my bed after dinner. It is such little touches of hospitality that make me feel welcome. The bed is hard, the bucket bath is cold but the IU sweats I brought with me give me a sense of comfort. Day 1 @ the office awaits.